H C M C - day 6 : Monsoon

An hour or so of rain this afternoon resulted in our street being flooded. Was great fun for the kids who were out in force playing in the water. Was less fun for the giant rats and cockroaches who were swimming for their lives toward us in the cafe we were sheltering in. Cafe waiter would have made a great soccer player with the great boot he gave one rat that got too close to us ! Plopped back into the water, and swam in a different direction. Two minutes later there were squeels from the cafe directly opposite us, people standing on chairs etc. Great fun.











Now, at 2.30pm the road is clear again, and killing some time before catching a taxi to the airport. Flying to Da Nang, 30 mins from Hoi An.

H C M C - day 5 : Swanksville

June 02

Decided to forego organised transportation and plans today, and spent many hours following our noses on foot around nearby districts. Set off around 10am, got back to hotel about 10pm. So covered a fair bit of ground.

In the process inadvertantly found the swanky expensive part of town (atleast this part of town). Several blocks of Sheratonesque hotel highrises and, on the streets below, all the pricey apparel, souvenir, restaurants, and miscellaneous glitteratti trinket stores you would expect feeding off them. Quite interesting to see the extent of modernisation, and I guess commercialisation within a Communist country. Probably a very small taste of what we will experience in China. Still a feeling of cautious control to it all I think.

Found an interesting fashion store featuring American military surplus jackets and pants customised with very impressive intricate Vietnamese embroidery. Paramilitary Commie Chic. Price tag on one jacket = 1200 US $. "Ahem, may I take a photo", I asked in sheepish voice.

The tailors in HoiAn are pros at mimicking garments from photos apparently. hehe hee.... if we can find US army surplus too.....

We've also noted there is an APEC conference going on sometime soon, and of course, as is usually the case with these things, the government is doing well to impress the official visitors. There's many banners around town, and most of the sights we've been to have had "Welcome APEC visitors" at the entrance. Bars must close at midnight during the conference apparently. Everyone on best behaviour!

Took rest stops several times at road side cafes along the way to have drinks. Have developed a liking for the popular ice coffee here. Glass of ice with cold black coffee and sugar. Also, at most restuarants you get a glass of ice and a pot of cold green tea = ice tea, with your meal. Had quite a number of glasses throughout the day. Extremely wired, so may have trouble sleeping tonight.

Overall another big day. Sure to have sore legs tommorow.

H C M C - train debacle (the great mistake, part2)

Not too many hours after Em nearly had a claustraphobic panic attack inside the real Cu Chi tunnel system, we were on a train at the station looking at a sweaty cabin for 6, with a coffin sized top bunk of a 3 stack, and contemplating an 18 hour journey in such conditions. No view, no alternative seating, all other cabs sold out, face 2 inches from ceiling. No restaurant cab etc etc. And only 3 minute stops along the way.

Five minutes before train departure we got off, and were considering more sane methods of transportation. Didnt lose too much money, but definately the right decision. Mental health would have been severly jeopardized.

Now, back in Ho Chi Minh, plane tickets booked (not too much more than the train), and enjoying a relaxed fifth day in a city we have really enjoyed. Off to Hoi An Saturday evening. Have booked a swanky hotel room, because Sunday June 4th is Em's 30th birthday. Sure to be a memorable one for us both.

H C M C - day 4 : A K 4 7 spree

Updated 13-06-06 by Em

I officially have bragging rights... heehee

Tere and I paid to shoot five bullets each out of an AK47 semi-automatic rifle.
You go down into a shallow bunker area with shooting targets way off in the distance. One of the guides gives you a pair of ear-muffs (please nb: they were not proper protective earmuffs, basically like you would wear as headphones) and loads the bullets.
Tere went first, when the rifle fires it is really loud! and you definitely feel the force of the gun jerk into your shoulder. The actual feeling of shooting a gun is NOT a pleasant experience, it feels very violent.
Neither of us hit any of the targets - if you do you can win free souveniers.
HOWEVER, the "official" guard said I was a better shot and came closer to hitting the targets.(yeeha - maybe I've found my true vocation on return to NZ?? not)
We were both relieved when it was over.
But as promised we did take a couple of "rambo inspired" shots for your entertainment.

H C M C - day 4 - Tunnels of Cu Chi

Updated 13-06-06 by Em

I will admit to having a rather embarassing panic attack after going down into one of the tunnels.

On entry I thought, this is OK I can do it, 2 secs later squashed down by the low ceiling my breathing started to quicken and I immediately felt like screaming, I said to our guide who was up ahead I'm going back I need to get out, but he beckoned me to follow and said the first exit point was just up ahead. I tried scuttling as quickly as I could in my oompa loompa stance.
On reaching the exit I climbed up the ladder into the piercing light, & stumbled onto the ground, I felt dizzy and my breathing was rapid - as I tried to focus I was aware of a large group of middle-aged American tourists standing around me and talking loudly in their twangy accents. Mr Dat & Mr Ton rushed over to me and I felt kinda stink.
Needless to say why I wasn't impressed by our "coffin like" beds on the train (HCMC - Hoi An) & why we decided not to go on it. IF after 2 secs I'm a mess, 18 hours would've been a hoot...not!

I was really impressed that Tere carried on - he went down to the second level and didn't appear until quite a far way. Way to go Goodie!

H C M C - day 4 - Markets

Thurs June 1

Another big day in Vietnam for us. Picked up at 8am by our motodrivers and guides, Mr Dat and Mr Tong, and headed out of the city. Got off the motorway about 45mins up the line to check out a rural market. Have seen many markets on our travels, this one had heaps of very fresh produce and animals. There were a few eyeopening sights .

(those a little squeemish dont read the next paragraph).
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Many many varieties of fish. Several types of water snakes - of differing sizes. Rats. Frogs. Chicken of course. Pork. Anything that is sold can be bought in any form. Living, dead as is, dead and skinned, or in the case of frogs - alive and skinned. Arrgghh. Poor things were just sitting there still alive, but breathing heavily and I guess in a state of shock. sent shivers up my spine. There were stacked cages of rats, smallest ones in one cage at the top, medium in the middle, and HUGE ones stuffed into a cage at the bottom. Alive of course. Across the path rats were being defurred and skinned. arrgghh. Seemed every part of every animal is sold and utilised in some way. I got plenty of photos for those who need to see the proof!
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Heaps and heaps of very fresh fruit and veges, many of which were of course alien to us.

We were quite the spectacle at the market. Seems they dont see many tourists there. Everyone was staring at us, indicating to their noses and pointing at ours, fascinated by our relatively straight and pointy noses. Very friendly people, obviously fascinated by foreigners. Many were commenting on Em's good looks, Mr Dat translated for us. Many were asking where we were from. Dan Dang Lee Lan - a very rough phonetic version of what the Vietnamese call New Zealand.

H C M C - day 3

Wednesday 31 May

Had "Pho" or Noodle soup for breakfast - which is a Vietnamese institution. During the consumption of said noodles (delicious), we were approached like you often are over here by a moto driver. At first, as usual, we were half ignoring him, but he pulled out his book of 'references', of which there were many photos and good comments from tourists who him and his cousin had shown around Ho Chi Minh City. We decided to go with these guys, as we had very little plans, and so far on our trip we haven't taken motorbike (moto).

In Cambodia, I thought to myself that there must be 20 scooters for every car. In Vietnam I think there must be about 60 scooters atleast, to every car. It very much is the predominant form of transport.




Here's a brief rundown of our tour of HCM city with Mr Dat, and Mr Ton:

1. Chinese Pagoda - 6 tiers high - good panoramic views of HCMC.

2. Chinese Temple - had a cup of tea. Shown funeral urns containing ashes on shelves - buddhist version of a cemetry.


3. China Town Market - fairly typical market, very few tourists, cleaner than most we have visited, also very colourful and some great smells from the various herbs, spices, fruits and flowers.

4. Chinese Medicine Shops - Snake Wine. I tried some - at first alot like a Whiskey, but with a strong almost metallic aftertaste (need I say bite?), shark fins, snake spines (for male potency! apparently 3 hours worth. I informed all in the store I did not need this).




5. Lunch - fish and vegetable hotpot soup, in a seperate dish sizzling fish marinated in fish sauce - with spring onion and garlic, steamed rice, and the all important fish sauce with chilli on the side for dipping. This was absolutely delicious food - some of the best we've had on our trip - a local favourite. The staff, which appeared to be 3 generations of 2 families, were amused as we wolfed down the food whilst practicing various Vietnamese phrases with them. We're finding the language very difficult by the way. More complex than Khmer (Cambodian) it seems - more tones.

6. China Town Temple - 300 years old. Chinese buddhist. Wrote family names on red piece of paper, attached to spiral incense which was hung from the ceiling and will be prayed for by the buddhist monks while it gradually burns through over the next 10 days, promising our famillies good health and good luck.

7. Floating Market - Saigon River. Famillies who live and work on the river bring fruits and veges from the Mekong Delta region up to Ho Chi Minh, and sell the goods from their boats which they also live in, for 5 days. They buy various goods while here and take them back down to sell in the Mekong area.





8. Shopping Centre - apparently a favourite amoungst ex Pats here. Alot of good quality clothes, bags etc. at reasonable prices. Bought a few more DVDs here.

A great day overall. Really enjoyed riding on the back of motos, experiencing the crazy roads here from a different angle again. Seemed like we saw alot of the city, but apparently we haven't covered much of it relatively.

Tommorow we're being picked up by the same drivers early and are heading out of HCMC to the Cu Chi tunnels. So will get to see some of the countryside.

Tommorow night we jump on an overnight train which will take us almost half way up the country to Hoi An - the ancient city. Which also happens to be on the beach. Looking forward to taking a dip.

H C M C - day 1 and 2

Tuesday 30 May

Arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam on Monday 29th May. A vast contrast to Cambodia. A very cosmopolitan and colourful place. Also very large. Sprawling.










Have had differing answers when I've asked different people the population. Its somewhere between 6 and 12 million. One guy told me 10million legal citizens, and 2 million illegal. Many of the people who sided with the South Vietnamese (and Americans) during what they call the "American War" are regarded illegal - have no citizenship. These guys often become Cyclo and Moto drivers.

On Tuesday we were pedalled around town by two Cyclos. These are like rykshaw's - A cycle with a seat attached to the front. Highlights of our tour on Tuesday were the Jade Pagoda, and a visit to the War Remnants museum.












The Jade Pagoda is a Chinese Buddhist temple. Within the temple are all sorts of strange effigies of various buddhist divinities. The spaces within have a very unearthly atmosphere, and shafts of light shine through holes in the roof. Very interesting.

The "War Remnants Museum" is a popular tourist attraction which used to be called the "American and Chinese War Crimes Museum". Vietnam is obviously on better terms with the USA these days hence the name change. However, much of the contents of museum are still dedicated to showing much of the negative effects of America's part in that particular war, starting from their support of the French Indochina Wars, through the "American War", to the pullout of the American army, and the ongoing effects of Agent Orange, Land mines and so on.

There are exhibits outlining several massacres (e.g. My Lai (My Son)) carried out by American troops, and some very eye opening statistics. Needless to say, many disturbing photos - many of which I have not seen before.

Having been presented mainly one perspective of this part of history most of ourlives, I found the Vietnamese Communist version quite interesting. There is alot of pride in their victory, but also a very realistic view of the negatives of war.

Outside the museum we met a man who had lost both arms, one leg, and one eye to a landmine when he was ten years old. A very real example of the ongoing effects of their own history. We saw many disabled victims of landmines in Cambodia, who had little choice but to beg for food and money, due to no government support . This man was selling books. He needed an upgrade to his prosthetic leg which he was raising money for.

We are really loving Ho Chi Minh City.

UPDATES

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