Tokyo to Kyoto by Bullet

20-7-6

Had another smooth ride on the Shinkansen (bullet train) today. Took the same line as from Osaka to Tokyo, this time jumping off at Kyoto. The ride was about two and a half hours. Apparently the train travels at about 300km per hour. It is much like being on a normal train except much smoother. Only the occassional gentle shudder. Outside the scenery whizzes by very fast - much like if you took normal video from a standard train and sped it up.

On the train we realised that Tokyo could be the longest we have stayed in one spot during the trip - 9 days. There are so many different areas to explore in Tokyo, and because many of these are quite large areas, it was good to return to them twice or three times to become more familiar with the layout. Tokyo surely must be one of the top places in the world to have your senses overloaded. Each of the places we visited within were very individual in character. Narrow streets and alleys with many independent stores, cafes and restaurants make for a far more interesting place to explore than a huge mall in my opinion. In fact I think we have only set foot in one mall in Japan. A far cry from HongKong or Shanghai, where it's difficult to avoid being in them.

Have settled into our accomodation in Kyoto. Relatively spacious room in more of a traditional setout - shoes off, tatami mats, sliding doors etc. No concrete plans for our stay here yet. We are slightly burnt out from our time in Tokyo, so taking it a bit slower in the last 9 days of our trip is part of the plan. At this stage we will be here 4 or 5 days. We will likely make day trips to Nara, and Hiroshima (if not stay one or two nights there). We return to Osaka on the 26th- to the same hostel in the soccer stadium actually, where we will stay until we head to Kansai airport for our final flight home on the 29th.

Shibuya, Akihabara-again, Nakano & Shibuya gig!

19-7-06
TOKYO DAY 8

Very brief update...

We decided to split up & do our own things for the day.

Em spent day wandering around various shops in Shibuya.

Tere went back to Akihabara to check out toy shops & he also went to another suburb called Nakano to visit a specific store he had sourced on net.

At 4.30 pmish Tere met up with Em back in Shibuya & they went to a live music venue called Chelsea Hotel & saw Japanese (supposedly) `indie`bands -but a bit more pop/rock than indie. Bands started at 7pm - we watched x3 & left venue around 9pm.

Harajuku (again) & Shimo-kitazawa

18-07-06
TOKYO DAY 7

Harajuku

Made a fairly quick stop in Harajuku again to check a street we didnt have time for the other day. Plenty to see just in the one street. Many of the narrow streets in city centres which have become shopping streets have been made pedestrian only.

Shimo-Kitazawa

A bit further away but on the same side of town as Shibuya,Harajuku and Shinjuku. Yet again a very different place. Dare I say more of an artsy feel to Shimo-Kitazawa. Popular with university / artschool types perhaps. Plenty of independent stores, cafes. A number of record stores specializing in roots, soul, reggae etc. Organic and other hippy related stuff. Apparently lots of live music here - indy, folksy, and roots - in the evenings, but unfortunately no time for that for us. Didnt find any Bizzare Guitars either, despite one shop's signage. Wandered the streets for a while, then jumped back on the train.

Another Move, Ebisu, & Shibuyagain

17-7-6
TOKYO DAY 6

Moved from Nishi-Kawaguchi into the more centrally located Asakusa. 3rd place we stayed at in Tokyo. Nicer hostel generally, but a bit of rowdy goings-on at odd hours by other travellers - i.e. we're getting too old for that stuff! Best aspect of this place - no curfew. Not sure if this is the same in hostels in other parts (not in our experience atleast), but most hostels here in Japan have an 11pm curfew. So no getting in after then. Met a few revellers who have resorted to the capsule hotels due to said curfews. Does restrict the freedom a bit, so good to stay somewhere when we dont need to worry about it.

Ebisu.

Decided to check out Ebisu. Quite a small area relative to Shinjuku and Harajuku. Predominantly bars, cafes, and restaurants. More of a refined feel, without being overly yuppie-esque. Somewhere professionals might meet after work for dinner. Once again, another place with quite different characterto other areas, despite being only a few metro stops from Harajuku/Shinjuku.Had fried prawn dumplings, pork dumplings, and steamed shrimp wontons at a small restaurant.

Shibuya

16-7-6
Tokyo Day 5 contd.

Cosplay Harajuku

Tokyo Day 5
16-7-6

Tokyo Munt !!

Toky Day 4 contd.
15-7-6

Random turning up at unknown venues results in hair flinging fest

Have been itching to see live music in Tokyo for a long time now. Unfortunately had very little time for research and for those who dont know, Tokyo has a rather large music scene. Unsure of the number of venues but my 30second websearch during the day unleashed a torrent of options.

Turned up to a venue in Shinjuku. Wasnt sure what type of affair was in store, but soon inside the doors the attire chosen by the punters within spoke volumes of Munt. Metal that is. and/or punk in its various forms. We're talking rock music.

Wont go into detail on the performances but will comment on aspects interesting to us. Especially relative to the Wellington gig-going experience.

Firstly I have been amazed and impressed to learn that gigs in Japan START EARLY. They start around 6pm as did this one. We showed up around 8pm and we think it was the 4th band to play beginning. Noticed that some venues even have daytime performances (12 or 1 in the afternoon !) on weekends, as well as nighttime ones. I can see a number of positives to this early gig starting. a. more bands get to play (assuming a well managed evening - of which this definately was one - band changeovers were very very fast), b. punters can catch the last subway home (including us !).

The level of organisation and professionalism at this gig was impressive. There were 6 or 7 bands playing. There was an area at the entrance where each band had a merchandise table selling CDs, Tshirts. Venue itself was extremely well soundproofed and airconditioned - there were 3 doors through to the room itself from where you got your ticket. Soundquality ridiculously polished - not my cuppa tea but usually the trademark of this genre. Made for clear listening and not too earsplitting.

For those interested, the room itself was maybe slightly larger than Valve in Wellington if you removed the booths and seats and bar. The bar was not within the room where the band played. So I found it interesting that a fairly small venue was running things so professionally.

The audience... During the first band we saw, we noted the audience to be pretty much in a state of hypnosis. The ends of songs would be met with polite applause followed by absolute deadly silence. Anyone who was talking during the song would stop at the end of it. We found it quite bizzare. However 30secs into the next band the floor went absolutely bizzerk. At first I expected the usual moshpit developments, however whilst checking the band out I felt several large objects whiz bythe back of my head in quick succession. I turned around to find that a large circle formed, as often does at metal gigs, in which the traditional form of metalhead dancing takes place. Such dancing is usually refered to as moshing, and comprises of big sweaty guys bashing into each other in response to the music. However what I saw taking place within the circle was not what I expected. The whizzing objects behind me were infact peoples' feet. There were five or six guys within the circle throwing roundhouse kicks, punches and other moves usually reserved to the Dojo. I quickly respositioned myself 10 metres away. The kicking reminded me of Capoeira.

It was truly a spectacle. I also noted that there were two or three women joining in too. It was definately violent, but however was not at all agro. No actual fighting broke out. And all the while, most of the participants were smiling. Seemingly in some sort of state of elation.

We had a great time at this gig. We met some guys from the first band we saw, and with the aid of there bilingual friend managed to have a short conversation. They had been together since 1996 and said it took alot of work to get to their level within Tokyo. It is definately a huge scene. Must be close to the level of London, or maybe even Palmerston Nth.

Harajuku

Tokyo Day 4
15-7-6

Caught train to Harajuku - one of many of Tokyo`s `trendy suburbs.` Lonely Planet describes it as been a place where fashionable youths like to go to be seen & shop. So Tere & I decided we would go & check it out.
It`s Saturday & when we arrive out of the subway we are meet with masses of people - looking down the main street, equiv to something like Auckland`s Queen Street are swarms of people covering the entire footpath as far as the eye can see. It`s insane.

The street is lined with some pretty big fashion-houses, such as Dior, Yves Saint Laurent etc... I daren`t even enter incase I`m automatically footed with $1000 NZ entry fee.
Lots of couples out for the day, carrying their shopping bags all styled up. People are out as much to be seen as to go shopping.

Off the main streets are lots of tiny little alley-ways lined with designer boutiques. Styley clothing stores with price tags to match. One alley-way is literally just swanky hair dressing salons & cafes.

We have lunch at this tiny little cafe on the 3rd floor of a little building on the main drag. The menu is in Japanese, but they have a large open hot plate where the chef is cooking these crepes filled with cabbage, egg etc, so we just point at those & order x2 - although i request `bejitarian` & Tere has pork (bacon).
Part of the fun is watching the chef cook them - first he pours batter onto hotplate & cooks crepe, then fills with freshly chopped cabbage, bean sprouts & herbs & bacon, then sprinkles chopped nuts inside, then he cooks another crepe which he then places ontop & flips (so looks kinda like crepe burger). Then he cracks an egg on the hotplate and spreads it out while frying it, places filled crepe inside, finally spreads a soy-sauce paste ontop & sprinkles with green stuff that looks like oregano, but isn`t.
Then he slices it up into 6 small squares and places on plate. Nb: this is all done using x2 fish slices to flip, cut, etc. very skillful.

Result is a mouthwatering, fantastic, filling meal!
Unfortunately I don`t know what they are called in Japanese as couldn`t understand menu, but they were damn good whatever they were.
Arigato gozaimass to the chef!!!

After lunch T & I decide to split up and do our own thing for an hour. Tere wants to check out a couple of the toy shops & I, of course want to check out the fashions.

I head off down the street and round the corner where I come upon a couple of vintage/retro stores. It`s madness, crowds of youths pushing through to find the perfect piece for their wardrobe. Really cool layout (ie) grouped into certain looks - 60`s mod, cowboy, rockabilly etc.
Although the goods are second hand - still pricey, however not so different from back home, where Hunter`s & Collectors & Ziggurat(Wellington vintage stores) are simlar. Vintage is in demand. But so is every/look/style etc. here.
I wander up & down the street popping in & out of various shops.
Meet up with Tere & we head into a department store -& I have a photo taken with 3 teenage Japanese girls, all dressed up in `costume-like` attire. Basically look like they`ve stepped off the set of Clockwork orange. cwaaazzzzy cool!

Come across another little alley-way area, where we stock up on a drink from vending machine.
We decide to have a rest & sit there for about 20 mins people watching.
Tere & I are constantly amazed at the fashion. There seems to be no right or wrong. Anything goes, and if they are into a certain style - they are not half-hearted. It`s do or die & they look fantastic.
Even the guys - we saw guys going through the racks in the woman`s section of store, finding accessories, trinkets that they can style into their outfits. Whether it is hung off their belt or tied around their wrist, they will find a way to style it.
I admit to been somewhat of a fashion-junkie, I enjoy fashion & dressing up, and I really admire that in Japan people seem to be so open to different styles & for both men/women, it feels really liberating. There is no wrong. Just experimentation.

Nb: Point to anyone planning on visiting Harajuku the alley-ways are the best parts, they are like little rabbit warrens with really cool little independant shops & great for people watching. Variety of clothing styles, hip-hop stores, retro hippy, designer t-shirts etc, shoes etc.

We head off back to subway as we are going to see a gig tonight at a venue in Shinjuku.

Harajuku was really cool, a very pretty area too, streets are lined with big trees. Very popular with young people & tourists. Unless you have a platinum card, I wouldn`t expect you could do too much shopping, as fairly pricey, but if you look hard enough you will come across some reasonably priced stores.

We are coming back to Harajuku tomorrow to check out Cosplay (aka Costume play) where all the kids go nuts & dress up in over the top in goth, maid outfits. COOL, that will be an experience in itself.

Signing off now - it`s 11.20 pm & our hostel has a 12.00 midnight curfew so...
Peace out.